Calm & Collected

Notes on Sassicaia 2023 and other new releases

Priscilla Incisa della Rochetta arrived in Toronto to showcase the wines produced by her family at Tenuta San Guido. Her visit was scheduled earlier than usual, to coincide with appointments in Montreal surrounding the Primum Familiae Vini (PFV) tasting and dinner taking place today at the Ritz-Carlton.

Della Rochetta usually times her visits closer to the release of Sassicaia, which the Liquor Control Board of Ontario traditionally features in October as part of its fine wine collection leading up to the holidays. I missed out on the organized tasting events but spoke with her and tasted bottles from Wednesday’s luncheon that were dropped for review.

Our conversation will be featured in next week’s Globe and Mail column, which includes della Rochetta’s response to rave reviews received by the 2023 vintage of Sassicaia and how the family remains true to its roots in winemaking, without looking to compromise or court critical success.

“You know, we also have many vintages that didn’t get such fantastic scores, especially back in the 1990s,” she says. “We haven’t adjusted our approach to conform to a certain standard. We continue to produce the wines in the same way.”

Toronto’s tastings also introduced Le Difese 2024 and Guidalberto 2024 to the market, which are also reviewed here.

Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia 2023
Bolgheri Sassicaia, Tuscany, Italy $375

First vintage 1968, 87 per cent cabernet sauvignon, 13 per cent cabernet franc, 24 months in barrels, 40 per cent new. 280,000 bottles produced.

Sassicaia displays an expansive and enveloping style in its 2023 vintage. The medium-bodied palate is already showing integration and harmony, a feature that some critics have noted is uncommon for youthful Bolgheri red blends. But isn’t that why Sassicaia is the only winery in Italy with its own appellation: DOC Bolgheri Sassicaia? It stands alone, offering a distinctive mix of red and black fruits with floral, herbal and spice notes in the glass. The wine has a remarkably polished texture and refreshing character for such an age-worthy wine. An elegant red wine that’s already enjoyable, with the potential to gain more depth and complexity. Outstanding. This has 14 per cent ABV. Drink now to 2045. (98/100)

Release date for international markets: June 2026. LCBO release scheduled for October 2026.

Tenuta San Guido Guidalberto 2024
Tuscany, Italy $98.95

First vintage 2000, making this the 25^th vintage. 52 per cent cabernet sauvignon, 48 per cent merlot, 13 months in oak, 90 per cent French and 10 per cent Hungarian, Slavonian, Germany, 40 per cent new. 400,000 bottles produced

This wine exhibits a more vertical structure, displaying brightness and complexity at this early stage. It features appealing dark fruit, spice and savoury notes (coffee, pine) that are sure to integrate more seamlessly over time. The finish lingers, with flavours of sour cherry and walnut. This is a serious and structured red wine that would benefit from decanting if you plan on drinking it early. This has 13.48 ABV. Drink 2027 to 2044. (95/100)

Release date for international markets: June 2026. Estimated LCBO release December 2026.

Tenuta San Guido Le Difese 2024
Tuscany, Italy $52.95

First vintage 2002, 75 per cent Sangiovese (from vineyards in Chianti and Chianti Rufina), 25 per cent cabernet sauvignon, aged in second and third fill barrels used previously for Guidoalberto, 375,000 bottles produced

This label continues to improve. The 2024 vintage sits confidently beside its more expensive and celebrated siblings. The new edition is an exciting red with bright and expressive flavours (red fruit, spice and floral notes). Its engaging style offers serious complexity and refinement, supple texture and juicy acidity. This has 13.8 per cent ABV. Drink now to 2034. (93/100)

Estimated LCBO release early 2027.

Saturday Sips

Flat Rock Cellars in Jordan is systematically releasing its new vintages, starting with the introductory range known as the Foundation Series. The Capstone Series will follow, with a tasting at the winery featuring The Rusty Shed Chardonnay, Gravity Pinot Noir and Nadja’s Vineyard Riesling set for later in the month. Watch this space.

Flat Rock Cellars Pinot Noir 2024
Niagara Peninsula $24.95

Made in a rich and peppery style with cola, leather and baking spice notes. Not the most graceful or sculpted Niagara pinot but shows concentrated character with chalky tannins on the fresh finish. This has 12.5 per cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2032. 6,801 cases. Available at the above price in Ontario or direct, flatrockcellars.ca, various prices in Alberta, $28.10 in Quebec. (88/100)

Flat Rock Cellars Riesling 2024
Niagara Peninsula $19.95

This lacks vibrancy on the nose, with lighter than expected notes of wet stone and talcum powder. There’s better depiction of the variety and region on the concentrated palate, which is friendly rather than focused. It’s made in a discernibly fruity (off-dry and honeyed) style that’s sure to please the established audience. This has 11 per cent ABV and 16.9 g/litre r.s. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario or direct, flatrockcellars.ca, various prices in Alberta, $28.10 in Quebec. (87/100)

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