My Dinners with André
Mourning the loss of a tireless champion of South Africa wine
I cannot recall the first time I met André Morgenthal, but I know I will never forget him.
Laurel Keenan, the Canadian representative for Wines of South Africa (WOSA), introduced us. She and André — we’re ditching the standard rules for journalism whereupon I use Morgenthal’s surname for the rest of this tribute; like Oprah, Cher or Ronaldo, André is mononymous; he answered his phone, “It’s André” — worked closely during his 15 year stint as WOSA’s communications manager.
Joining forces with celebrated viticulturist Rosa Kruger, André would establish the Old Vine Project in an effort to preserve South Africa’s heritage vineyards and, more recently, supported the Agulhas Wine Triangle, promoting the wines and wine tourism in the remote and raw region at the southernmost tip of the continent
Those are the key line items of André’s work, but they merely scratch the surface of who he was and how he operated. André was a natural born communicator. He established relationships and forged connections through his warmth, passion and joie de vivre.
In a 2020 interview with stellenboschonfoot.co.za, André aptly summed up his career path: “It is not a job; it is a calling! It is something more difficult to grasp… it is life,” he explained.
André loved wine. He loved South Africa. He loved connecting people. Mostly, he loved gathering around a table, sharing food, wine and free-ranging conversation.
In the 20-plus years of our connection, we would see each other fleetingly. A year or, more often, years would pass between meetings in Toronto, Stellenbosch and elsewhere, but André would effortlessly pick up conversations where we left off.
My colleague Maryam Siddiqi joked about our bromance during a dinner after a tasting in London, England. But I know it wasn’t exclusive. That was André.
A great many others in Stellenbosch, in South Africa and across the globe could say the same thing. He had a knack of keeping tabs, which is why so many are left with an André sized hole in our worlds since learning he passed away January 27 after a long illness. He was 54 and will be missed dearly.
Other Tributes
Christian Eedes, editorial director of winemag.co.za, described André as a “highly visible and deeply networked figure, he brought producers, trade and media together – often around a table with a bottle open – and will be greatly missed.”
From an obituary on wine.co.za: “André was a gifted storyteller and advocate whose influence helped shape the heart of our industry. He will be remember not only for his professional brilliance but for the warmth he shared with everyone he met.”
David Trafford, of De Trafford and Sijnn wineries, wrote on his Instagram (@davidtrafford): “The passing of Andre Morgenthal is a sad loss for many of us, especially in the wine industry. A friend since we started @detraffordwines back in the nineties… Always full of stories over a glass of wine and a great ambassador for South African wine and in particular the @oldvineproject and the @agulhaswinetriangle He will be sorely missed. RIP Andre.”
Magic and Loss
André wore a The The t-shirt the last time we met for lunch in Stellenbosch. He said it was intentional because of our mutual appreciation of singer-songwriter Matt Johnson’s rotating band. More than music, André loved movies and was especially fond of The Big Lebowski. A well-timed reference to The Dude (Jeff Bridges’ character in the Coen Brother’s shambolic comedy) always made him smile: “Hey, careful, man, there’s a beverage here!” Townes Van Zandt’s cover of “ Dead Flowers” by The Rolling Stones plays during the film’s final scene, which ends with the signature send-off, “The Dude abides,” and over the closing credits. After repeated viewings, I’m not entirely sure of the film’s meaning, but there’s message of hope if we choose to embrace life’s chaotic and frequently absurd nature without losing our sense of self.
😢 raise a glass to Andre ... I wish I had met him
So sad for the loss of your friend.