Like many Okanagan wine producers in the 2024 vintage, 1 Mill Road Winery didn’t have a commercial crop from its Naramata vineyards or any of the blocks under contract in other parts of the valley. Subzero temperatures in January wiped out the harvest, but thankfully didn’t kill any of their vines.
Having taken over the pinot noir-focused operation from founders David and Cynthia Enns in 2022, Ben Bryant and Katie Truscott were expanding production, adding chardonnay to the focus on single-vineyard pinot noir. They decided to produce wines from Washington State to fill the gap, but looked to grenache and syrah instead of sticking with their established varieties.
“We made a calculated decision that we weren’t going to go to Oregon and do a chardonnay,” Bryant says. “We didn’t want to blur that line.”
Instead, working with grenache and syrah allowed the Australian native to reconnect with his roots working as chief winemaker for Pernod Ricard Winemakers Australia before moving to the Okanagan Valley in 2018.
British Columbia’s high-yielding and high-quality 2025 vintage will bring 1 Mill Road back on track, offering an expanded range of single-vineyard pinot noirs and a chardonnay. Bryant and Truscott have released their Pinot Noir Rosé 2025, which displays surprisingly ripe character despite its declared 12 per cent alcohol content. I was impressed by its restrained, well-made and persistent style. (My rated review runs in next week’s Globe and Mail column.)
1 Mill Road Syrah Coyote Canyon Vineyard 2024
Horse Heaven Hills, Washington State $60 (1millroad.ca)
Hand-harvested and sorted, approximately 20 per cent whole cluster. Fermented in large oak and aged for 15 months. Bottled unfined and unfiltered.
A surprisingly ripe and bright expression of syrah that’s well put together, with red cherry and berry fruit, floral and savoury aromas and flavours. I love the pure and fresh character on display, with peppery spice, black olive and licorice notes that carry through to the lingering finish. This has 13.5 per cent ABV and 0.3 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2034. Available at the above price direct, sold as a case of six bottles, 1millroad.ca (94/100)
1 Mill Road Grenache Coyote Canyon Vineyard 2024
Horse Heaven Hills, Washington State $56 (1millroad.ca)
Hand-harvested and optically sorted, 30 per cent whole cluster. Cold soaked before fermentation and basket pressing to older French oak barrels for eight months. Bottled unfined and unfiltered.
This is a juicy and fragrant expression of grenache, with sweet and crunchy cranberry and cherry flavours accented by floral and savoury spice notes. There’s more concentrated red-fruit on the second day yet still pleasing freshness, with a supple texture featuring refined tannins. The style emphasises purity and sweetness as part of a sophisticated and satisfying red wine. This has 13.7 per cent ABV. Drink now to 2030. Available at the above price direct, sold as a case of six bottles, 1millroad.ca (93/100)
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