Thirsty Thursday

Cheers to a juicy and vibrant red from Vinho Verde

While I was touring Vinho Verde last week, one of the region’s dynamic red wines was introduced at LCBO Vintages outlets. Pardusco has become a staple in Quebec, which has just released the 2024 vintage.

It’s made by Anselmo Mendes, who is native of Monçao, where his Quinta de Torre property has the largest single planting of alvarinho in Portugal (50 hectares).

Mendes’ on-going success with alvarinho in Vinho Verde hasn’t stopped him from experimenting with different red and white wine varieties, including cainho branco, fiano and riesling as well as nebbiolo and pinot noir. He is cultivating experimental vineyards and produces tiny batches (35 bottles) of wine each year to monitor the progress and potential of those various vines in the region.

Since 2012, he has been helping to revive the nearly extinct local alvarelhão variety to produce this brightly coloured, low-alcohol, elegant red wines that is worth seeking out.

Anselmo Mendes Vinhos Pardusco 2023
Vinho Verde, Portugal $18.95 (50869)

A blend of alvarelhão, pedral and cainho, Pardusco is named after the first Portuguese red wines exported to the UK in the 14th century. 35,000 bottles produced annually, 15,000 of which are sold in Quebec.

This bright and lively red makes the most of its juicy character. There’s a delicate herbal note that adds interest to the core of red cherry/berry fruit that carries through to a lingering finish. Beautiful balance and outstanding value. This has 12 per cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2029. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta, $17.45 in Quebec (2024 vintage). (92/100)

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