Wine Wednesday

Three Niagara wines to savour this spring

Here are three notable wines from two of my longtime favourite producers in Niagara. You are getting a first look at two of Cave Spring’s most popular labels as they are released to stores in Ontario, while the Meldville red might be something of a limited release at this time. Poor inventory management meant a case of Meldville samples was misplaced, which had no ill effect on Derek Barnett’s robust wines but limits the effectiveness of sharing tasting notes for wines that are no longer available.

Cave Spring Vineyard Estate Grown Cabernet Franc 2024
Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (523001)

100 per cent cabernet franc from Cave Spring Vineyard. Aged in a mix of 225L and 500L barrels for 14 months. Unfiltered.

Cave Spring recognized the star power of cabernet franc earlier than most Niagara wineries, based on a close examination of how the vines handled the potential heat and cold extremes of Ontario’s weather as well as the consistent quality of wine produced year after year. You can expect the premium-priced Cabernet Franc Estate to deliver (and it does so in a rewarding fashion), but there’s an even bigger thrill in seeing the quality for the money offered by this savoury and refined expression. The wine features a mix of ripe berry and cherry fruit with spice and herbal notes as part of its age-worthy character. This has 14 per cent ABV and 2.5 g/litre r.s. Vegan friendly. Drink now to 2034. Available at the above price in Ontario or $21.95 direct, cavespring.ca (90/100)

Cave Spring Vineyard Chardonnay Estate 2024
Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula $24.95 (256552)

From 36 year old vines on the namesake estate vineyard, clones 95. 96 and 77. Natural fermentation (no yeast added) in a mix of 225L oak barrels (French), 500L puncheons and a 3,500L cask, with 15 per cent of the blend fermented in stainless steel. Aged 10 months on the lees (spent yeast cells from fermentation).

A ripe and balanced expression of Beamsville bench chardonnay, this reveals yellow apple, lemon and blossom aromas that continue on the palate. The creamy texture is enhanced by stony, earthy and saline notes that contribute to the lingering finish. The style is broad and deep yet it maintains freshness and focus that suggest potential for maturing gracefully in bottle. This has 12.5 per cent ABV and 3 g/litre r.s. Vegan friendly. Drink now to 2034. Available at the above price in Ontario or $21.95 direct, cavespring.ca (92/100)

Meldville Cabernet Syrah 2020
Ontario $20 (meldvillewines.com)

A blend of 80 per cent cabernet franc, 20 per cent syrah, without any reference to origin (beyond Ontario on the label) or vintage.

Self-trained winemaker Derek Barnett has always made wines that he likes to drink. He has excelled at rich chardonnays and classically made reds from his early days at Southbrook and Lailey Vineyard to his current project, Meldville, a virtual winery named after his home and hometown in Leicestershire, England. An early champion of syrah in Niagara and a longtime fan of cabernet franc in the region, this attractively priced wine shows the two varieties to great effect. Its sweet spice-laden flavours suggest a mix of sour cherry and dark fruit with peppery and herbal notes. Like all of Barnett’s reds, there’s bright acidity and tannic grip contributing to the structure, making it a style of red that’s better on the second day. Consider decanting and serve in a wine glass with a large bowl for the best enjoyment. This has 13.5 ABV. (89/100)

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