Wine Wednesday
Five picks that deliver on price and experience
Shopping for wine is often about finding a bottle you may enjoy at a price you can afford, which is how wine critics found their voice. Offering objective and expert opinions, they helped consumers navigate the diverse selection on offer, providing confidence as shoppers sifted through unfamiliar bottles or explored new regions.
Of course, not all “experts” are created equal. (They are not equally objective either, but that’s a matter for another day.) I am leery about self-declared experts in any field, but especially so in the world of wine. There’s simply too much nuance required to understand any wine region you care to mention, let alone the entirety of fermented grape juice that takes place annually.
So, I’m not here to announce myself as your wine expert bro or bestie, monikers that, to my ears, telegraph inauthenticity or worse, are superficial boasting based on insecurity and a need for validation.
I am here to offer my suggestions on wines that I have tasted and feel are worthy of sharing with other wine lovers.
A good review goes beyond sharing an opinion about how a particular bottle tasted at a specific moment in time to convey the story behind that wine. Insights into the history of the producer, uniqueness of the vineyards or effects of the growing season can foreshadow a more meaningful drinking experience.
This week’s thumbnail reviews don’t entirely match the lofty goals set out above. They are quick hits, brief recommendations of some current releases that you might be inclined to buy and try. As I grow into this space, I hope to spend more time and dig a little deeper. Let me know if you are interested in that.
Bouvet Excellence Crémant de Loire Brut Rosé Sparkling
France $24.95 (959304)
Made using the traditional method, this consists of 60 per cent Cabernet Franc and 40 per cent Grolleau, aged for 12 months on lees
The relatively high dosage stands out, adding a candied edge to the flavours of this orangey-pink rosé. Lots of fruit on display — plum and juicy red apple, with jammy notes — and a soft, round texture that contributes to its mass appeal. This has 12.5 per cent ABV and 12 g/litre r.s. Best enjoyed now. Available in Ontario. (87/100)
Bouvet Saphir Saumur Brut Vintage Sparkling 2022
Saumur, Loire Valley, France $23.95 (44203)
Crafted using the traditional method, this sparkling wine is made with 100 per cent Chenin Blanc and aged for 18 months on lees.
The taste of Chenin Blanc shines through in this crowd-pleasing sparkling wine, offering peach, yellow apple and citrus notes with biscuit and honey accents. The tree fruit and yeasty character make for a fruity and fun style. Good value considering the medium-bodied and dry expression, nice balance and fine bubbles. This has 12.5 per cent ABV and 8 g/litre r.s. Best enjoyed now. Available in Ontario. (90/100)
Creekside Estate Winery Sur Lie Chardonnay 2024
Lincoln Lakeshore, Niagara Peninsula $13.75 (creeksidewine.com)
Fermented in stainless steel tanks with regular stirring of the lees, followed by extended aging on the lees to develop complexity.
Here’s a terrific value unoaked Niagara Chardonnay that offers lemon, pear/apple and peach fruit flavours with biscuit and nutty notes from the lees. The style is bright, balanced and youthful, with admirable length. This has 13 per cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2027. Available in Ontario. (88/100)
Liebling Creek Road Vineyard Gamay 2023
Four Mile Creek, Niagara Peninsula $26 (drinkcollab.com)
Made from Gamay clones 509 and 358, with vines planted in 1996 and aged for 9 months in second-use French oak barrels.
Light, bright and distinctively Gamay, with a core of red fruit flavours (raspberry, cherry), light tannins and a hint of sweetness on the finish. Pure and refreshing style, with earthy and peppery notes on the palate. Chill for best enjoyment. 95 cases. This has 12.5 per cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2028. (89/100)
Horseshoe Cellars Kelson Block Riesling 2024
Grimsby Hillside Vineyard, Lincoln Lakeshore, Niagara Peninsula $34.99 (drinkcollab.ca)
Made with the Weis 21 clone, with vines planted in 2008. Hand harvested. Produced at Collab Wine & Beverage.
This is the first commercial release from a winemaking partnership between Scott Woody (viticulturalist at Tantalus Vineyards in Kelowna) and John-Daniel Steele (wine club manager at Okanagan Crush Pad in Summerland), which began in 2019. The project, which originated from making wine for personal consumption, family and friends, continues even as their careers have taken them to British Columbia. The style is classic Niagara Riesling, with an open and direct varietal character leading to a zesty lime finish. This presents a sweet-sour and friendly character with nice purity and length. 70 cases. This has 11.1 per cent ABV and 12 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2035. (91/100)
Very intrigued to try the Creekside chard…