Wine Wednesday
Five fine wines to enjoy this month
Wine enthusiasts in Ontario are used to new releases hitting government-operated liquor stores twice a month. The semi-monthly LCBO release events used to be a buttoned-down affair. Products would be unveiled ceremoniously on Saturday mornings, becoming available on a first-come, first-served basis. If you were after a specific wine, you arrived early and stood in the ever-growing line, hoping the eager customers ahead weren’t after the same bottles.
Now featured selections appear online and on shelves days before the specified launch. There are no queues, no need to leave your house. Place your order using your phone and have it delivered to your home or workplace. It’s more efficient and effective, but there is a loss of community as a result.
Those Saturday mornings connected you with like-minded people, offering an opportunity to share stories, and compare notes with fellow collectors. Like comic book and record shops before them, wine shops became a place for me to connect, explore, and decompress.
The next LCBO Vintages release is earmarked for February 7, although I’m sure you’ll be able to shop the selection today. Here are five noteworthy wines that stood out in recent tastings.
Domaine Queylus La Grande Réserve Pinot Noir 2019
Niagara Peninsula, Ontario $65.95 (21533)
La Grande Réserve is the top-of-the-line label from Domaine Queylus, a Niagara-based winery controlled by a consortium of 12 wine lovers from Quebec. Sixty per cent of production centres on Pinot Noir. This Pinot from 2019 is hitting its stride, offering juicy and concentrated character with a core of dense dark fruit (black cherry and plum) with sleek texture and firm structure. Appealing fragrance and ripe fruity intensity are countered by savoury and meaty notes. Drying tannins are evident on the finish; this is a bottle to bring to the table. This has 12 per cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2028. Available at the above price in Ontario or direct, queylus.com (92/100)
Domaine Queylus Réserve du Domaine Chardonnay 2022
Niagara Peninsula, Ontario $48.70 (417832)
Domaine Queylus in Niagara makes Chardonnays that deliver a rich and rewarding character. From the entry-level, Tradition label, to the Réserve du Domaine and La Grande Réserve ranges, these barrel-fermented whites offer expressive fruity (citrus and apple) styles with layers of nutty, spice and honeyed notes. This boasts terrific complexity and flavour. Highly Recommended. This has 12.8 per cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2030. Available at the above price in Ontario or direct, queylus.com (92/100)
López de Haro Crianza 2021
Rioja, Spain $17.95 (377481)
The house style seems to embrace age rather than fruit, resulting in traditional style red with a savoury and earthy nose. Juicy red berry notes soften a structured palate and are layered with spice, earth and tobacco flavours. Solid value for fans of old school reds. This has 13.5 per ABV and 4 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2028. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices at private stores in British Columbia and Alberta. (88/100)
Soren Boundary Spring Red 2022
Similkameen Valley, British Columbia $38.95 (46480)
Soren is a virtual winery operated by Geoffrey Moss, a master of wine and wine marketer, and Ryan McKibbon, winemaker at Black Hills Estate Winery in the southern Okanagan. The two met while attending Niagara College’s wine program and launched this venture with a viognier made in the 2021. Their Boundary Spring red blend is produced with cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot, malbec and syrah from a vineyard in the Similkameen. Each variety was aged independently in French oak before the best barrels were selected. The result is a fragrant and flavourful red that suggests a complex mix of ripe and tart red fruit, and herbal, floral and spicy notes. It’s nicely integrated and has potential to age. This has 14 per cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2032. Available at the above price in Ontario, limited availability in British Columbia (private stores). (92/100)
Warwick The First Lady Sauvignon Blanc 2025
South Africa $14.95 (48092)
As the price may suggest, this is Sauvignon Blanc served up in a simple and uncomplicated fashion. Appealing fragrance and a wash of citrus and herbal flavours make for a wine that’s more refreshing than juicy. This has 13.5 per cent ABV and 3 g/litre r.s. Drink now. Available in Ontario. (88/100)
Ah… ordering online from the LCBO. We can do hard things.