Yours to Discover
A roadmap for a life of wine appreciation
Back in the Summer of 1988, I was hired as a tour guide at Hillebrand Estates in Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ontario. The job was attractive for several reasons, not the least being that I was only 18. The chance to spend a summer tasting wine and leading tourists through vineyards seemed much more appealing than washing dishes or working in a retail shop.
At the time the German company behind Scholl & Hillebrand (established in 1880 in Rüdesheim) and Schlumberger wineries owned the property now known as Trius Winery. Tours at the fledgling Niagara operation started by welcoming guests to “the Niagara-on-the-Lake winery with two centuries of tradition.” Looking back, it’s interesting to note how the culture of wine has evolved in Canada. Wineries continue to promote pedigree and tradition as a mark of quality, although producers across the country are now telling uniquely Canadian stories as opposed to borrowed mythology.
The quality and flavour of the liquid in the glass has also changed. That’s true not only of Canadian wines, but ones from anywhere in the world. Winemaking styles have shifted, leading to wines with better balance, purity and length.
The same way that parachute pants and Ocean Pacific t-shirts are no longer in fashion, winemaking styles (the historic tendency towards aggressive oak, buttery/creamy textures, high alcohol) have shifted with the times.
What’s exciting today is that so much wine is being sold across the country, that more than one style can be successful. There’s always something new to discover. The question is which styles give you pleasure. The only way to truly know is to taste and see for yourself.
Revised Editor’s Letter from the Spring 2017 edition of VINES Magazine