Wine Wednesday
Three rich and refreshing whites to savour
I have just received a sample of Hidden Bench’s Fumé Blanc, which seems like a twist of fate, given that I have just written about how revolutionary this wine’s debut vintage was.
This barrel-fermented Sauvignon Blanc blend has consistently been a favourite. It tastes best when the weather is cooler, but I’d never turn down a glass, whatever the weather. (Before the grapes from Rosomel Vineyard went to Hidden Bench, Brian Schmidt, the winemaker at Vineland Estates, was the happy recipient, creating a stellar oak aged white blend from the 2002 vintage.)
The 2024 model has a streamlined, pungent and polished character, offering a heady perfume and satisfying depth of flavour. There is a clear sense of the variety as part of a well-rounded wine with ripe fruit, a rich texture and a long finish. The flavours are less concentrated than in some previous years, but they linger.
Hidden Bench Rosomel Vineyard Fumé Blanc 2024
Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula $29.95 (68825)
Roman Prydatkewycz planted the 23-acre Rosomel vineyard on the Beamsville Bench in 1976. Rosomel is a combination of his, his wife Sophie’s and their daughter Melanie’s first names. The property was sold to Hidden Bench in 2004. It is the source of their flagship red and white blends, La Brunante and Nuit Blanche and other single-vineyard releases.
As a big fan of barrel-fermented sauvignon blanc, I really appreciate this expressive and intense example from Niagara’s Hidden Bench. It has an appealing blend of citrus, apple and tropical fruit flavours, as well as toasty and stony notes. It’s refreshing and nicely structured, with a satisfying texture and length. Good value. This has 13 per cent ABV and 3 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2031. Available at the above price in Ontario or direct, hiddenbench.com (93/100)
Upcoming Releases
Chardonnay steps into the spotlight at LCBO Vintages outlets in July, ahead of the annual Cool Climate Chardonnay Celebration in Niagara. Tickets and information about this year’s event are available here.
Hidden Bench Béton Chardonnay 2024
West Niagara, Niagara Peninsula $29.95 (45618)
Certified organic by Procert. Fermented naturally (wild ferment) in concrete, aged in concrete and on its lees, and stainless steel before being bottled unfiltered in April 2026.
Béton is a serious unoaked chardonnay produced by the winemaking team at Hidden Bench. It is made in a broad and fleshy style with a pleasant texture and freshness. There’s a winning mix of fruity, savoury and saline flavours that make this stand out. This has 14 per cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2029. Available at the above price in Ontario or direct, hiddenbench.com (90/100)
Small Wonder Landscape Chardonnay 2024
Tasmania, Australia $28.95 (50127)
A blend of Chardonnay clones and vines of various ages from the estate’s vineyards in the Tamar and Coal River valleys. Barrel fermented and aged in 10 per cent new French oak barrels for 10 months.
Small Wonder’s Landscape label Chardonnay is a refreshing and rich style with a mouth-watering mix of popcorn, tart pineapple, green apple and lime flavours. It is made in vibrant style, based on balanced acidity (zesty but not austere) that carries through to the wet stone and chalky finish. This has 13 per cent ABV and 0 g/litre r.s. Vegan-friendly. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario. (91/100)
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